Bulldog London Dry Gin

Bulldog is named for Winston Churchill's "bulldog spirit" — unyielding courage in the face of overwhelming odds — but its botanicals come from a very different part of the world. Anshuman Vohra, a former JPMorgan banker who'd inherited a passion for gin from his father and traveled widely, launched it in 2007 with twelve botanicals from eight countries, three of them almost unheard of in gin: dragon eye (longan, a lychee-like fruit from China, sweet and light), white poppy from Turkey (sweet and nutty), and lotus leaves from China, drunk as tea in traditional medicine for their perfumed character. They join juniper, lemon peel, almond, cassia, lavender, orris, licorice, angelica, and coriander, macerated and distilled four times in copper pot stills at G&J Greenall, England's oldest gin distiller, from 100% British wheat, bottled at 40% ABV. It built a following in New York bars first, then Europe, and Campari Group now sells it in more than 55 countries. Difford's found piney juniper with floral lavender, musky nutty angelica, and lime zest on the nose, then a pleasingly dry yet soft palate with woody juniper rightly to the fore, generous angelica, and mellow black-pepper spice. The Gin Is In's readers compare it to Hendrick's for smoothness and versatility. Expect zesty citrus and light juniper with a faint exotic, perfumed sweetness underneath — the poppy and longan working quietly. The studded-collar bottle is a bar icon. Superb in a G&T with a lime wheel or a smooth, floral Martini.

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