Derrumbes Michoacan Mezcal

Derrumbes Michoacán is mezcal from a state most drinkers don't know makes it — and it's distilled in a still that exists almost nowhere else. Derrumbes is a mezcal atlas, one bottle per state, and Michoacán's comes from Tzitzio, in the pine-forested mountains near the Balsas River, made by maestro mezcalero J. Guadalupe Pérez from two agaves: chino (Agave cupreata, the fruit-forward papalote of the southern mountains) and alto (Agave inaequidens, a tall, rare highland species), pit-roasted, crushed, naturally fermented, and distilled in Michoacán's ancestral Filipino-style still — a hollowed-out tree trunk with a copper condensing plate, a design that came across the Pacific on the Manila galleons and survives in a handful of villages. Bottled at around 45% ABV; check your label. Derrumbes describes an elegant combination: cupreata bringing mature fruit, inaequidens a delicate herbaceous character that resembles the surrounding pine forests. Wooden Cork: distinctive tropical fruit and herbal character from the low-altitude, near-coastal climate. Expect a nose of ripe tropical fruit and green pine over a gentle, clean smoke, opening into a rounded, fruity palate with an herbal, resinous edge and a soft, rustic texture from the wooden still, finishing long and warm. Honest note: this is a regional rarity for drinkers curious about mezcal beyond Oaxaca. In a copita, neat. Michoacán, in a tree-trunk still.

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