Gracias A Dios Cuixe Mezcal

Cuixe is so tough that Gracias a Dios has to shred it mechanically before the tahona can crush it — the only agave at the palenque that gets that treatment. Gracias a Dios means thank God; the founders opened a mezcalería in Querétaro in 2010, spent two years touring Mexico for mezcal, met maestro Oscar Hernández Santiago in Santiago Matatlán, and made him an equal partner. The palenque is 100% solar-powered and plants three agaves for every bottle sold. Cuixe is a wild karwinskii agave — a tall, thin, trunk-like maguey that grows in Oaxaca's dry valleys and takes twelve to fifteen years to mature — roasted in a wood-fired earthen oven, shredded and then tahona-crushed, fermented with wild yeast, and double-distilled in copper, bottled unaged at 45% ABV; check your label for the lot. Mezcal Report scores the house's Madre Cuishe a solid 3.5 among Matatlán's field. Karwinskii agaves give a profile unlike espadín — drier, more mineral, more herbal, with a distinctive savory funk: expect a nose of wet clay, dried herbs, green olive, and citrus peel over light smoke, opening into a lean, dry, mineral palate with white pepper, cucumber, and a saline edge, finishing long and clean. Honest note: a connoisseur's agave, scarce and priced for it. Neat, in a copita, beside the espadín. The stubborn agave, from the solar palenque.

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