Gracias A Dios Tobala Mezcal

Tobalá is the king of the wild agaves — a small, broad-leafed maguey that grows in the shade of high oak canyons, takes twelve to fifteen years to mature, and yields so little that a single bottle takes many plants. Gracias a Dios means thank God; the founders opened a mezcalería in Querétaro in 2010, spent two years touring Mexico for mezcal, met maestro Oscar Hernández Santiago in Santiago Matatlán, and made him an equal partner. The palenque is 100% solar-powered and plants three agaves for every bottle sold. Tobalá is wild Agave potatorum from the Oaxacan hills, roasted in a wood-fired earthen oven, crushed by a donkey-drawn tahona, fermented with wild yeast, and double-distilled in copper, bottled unaged at 45% ABV; check your label for the lot. Tobalá is prized for delicacy: expect a nose of white flowers, honey, ripe stone fruit, and sweet cream over a whisper of smoke, opening into a soft, rounded, faintly floral palate with green apple, cinnamon, and a mineral thread, finishing long and gentle — less smoke and heat than the house espadín, more perfume. Honest note: wild tobalá is scarce and priced for it, and it's a sipping mezcal, not a mixer. Neat, in a copita, slowly, ideally beside the espadín to taste what the agave changes. The king, from the solar palenque.

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