Mezcal Vago Madrecuishe By Emigdio Jarquin

For madrecuishe, Emigdio Jarquín uses a refrescador — a copper still wrapped in a water-cooled cylinder that effectively distills twice in a single pass — and Vago had never bottled mezcal made that way until it met him. Mezcal Vago launched in 2013 bottling single-maestro mezcals with the producer's name and batch on the label, and Emigdio — the blue label — is known throughout Miahuatlán for his distilling expertise; his palenque sits at 5,000 feet in the El Nanche district, in semi-arid hills where wild agaves of every kind grow and the calcium-carbonate soil gives everything a mineral streak. Madrecuishe is the mother of the cuixe family — a tall, trunk-forming karwinskii agave that takes twelve to fifteen years to mature — pit-roasted, tahona-crushed, wild-fermented, and distilled in the refrescadera, hand-bottled at still strength; check your batch. Mezcal Reviews' tasters, sipping Emigdio's mexicano-madrecuishe blend, confess to being suckers for Miahuatlán and say it delivers. Karwinskii agaves give a profile unlike espadín — drier, more mineral, more herbal, with a savory funk — and Miahuatlán's chalk sharpens it: expect wet clay, dried herbs, green olive, citrus peel, and rock-candy minerals over light smoke, a lean, oily, layered palate, and a long, saline finish. Honest note: a connoisseur's wild agave from a reference maestro, scarce and batch-varying. Neat, in a copita. The mother cuixe, through Emigdio's refrescador.

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