Neisson Rhum Vieux Par Neisson

Le Rhum Vieux par Neisson is the house's entry into aged agricole — three years in oak, the minimum the AOC allows for vieux, from a family that's made rhum near Le Carbet since 1922. Neisson is one of the last two independent, family-run distilleries in Martinique, founded by brothers Jean and Adrien Neisson and now run by Jean's grandson Grégory Vernant-Neisson; it makes barely 2% of the island's rhum from 49 hectares of its own cane, on a copper Savalle column Jean himself modified in 1952, with a five-day fermentation deliberately kept to a low 7.5% for maximum flavor. The Vieux is fresh cane juice distilled on that column and aged at least three years in ex-bourbon and French oak casks, bottled at around 42% ABV with nothing added under the AOC Martinique, in the square-shouldered Zépol Karé bottle. Thirty-One Whiskey found a fruity rum with some bourbon characteristics — the low-strength fermentation and the wood meeting in vanilla, orchard fruit, and cane — with a touch of bitterness on the finish. The Lone Caner calls Neisson one of the most distinctive agricole makers he's encountered, its aged rhums rewarding patience as they unfold. Expect a nose of dried fruit, vanilla, toasted oak, and the house's savory, musky cane note, opening into a medium-bodied palate of caramel, spice, grape, and butter with the grassy edge of the white still present, finishing moderately long. Honest note: the young vieux is the entry to Neisson's aged range; the XO and vintages are where it sings. For a Ti' Punch vieux, a Rhum Old Fashioned, or neat.

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