Mezcal Derrumbes San Luis Potosi

Derrumbes San Luis Potosí is the mezcal without smoke — cooked in above-ground stone ovens, not an earthen pit, from an agave that yields a quarter of what blue agave does. Derrumbes bottles one producer per state to show how much region changes mezcal, and this one comes from the high central plateau of San Luis Potosí, where a traditional hacienda still makes mezcal the way that region always has: wild Agave salmiana — abundant on the plateau but so low-yielding it takes up to four times the agave for the same spirit — grown in calcareous soil, cooked in the hornos de mampostería that give potosino mezcal its clean, unsmoked profile, crushed by tahona, fermented with wild yeast, double-distilled in small copper pots, and bottled at 43.5% ABV. Finn's Manor calls it an incredible example of a very particular style, the chalky terroir terrifically evident in the flavor. Expect a nose of green agave, lime, wet chalk, and cooked vegetables with no campfire at all, opening into a bright, mineral, faintly bitter palate with green pepper, citrus, and a saline finish. My Annoying Opinions reviewed the range across its mezcal week. Honest note: this is the mezcal for people who think they don't like mezcal because of smoke — and for enthusiasts who want the plateau's voice. For a Margarita that tastes like agave, or neat. San Luis Potosí, unsmoked. Gallo took a stake in Derrumbes in 2024.

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