Kuleana Rum Works Hawaiian Rum Agricole
Forty varieties of heirloom Hawaiian sugarcane go into this rum — the canoe plants and old Polynesian cultivars that Kuleana Rum Works grows on its farm in Kohala, on the northern tip of the Big Island. Kuleana means responsibility, and the company founded in 2013 takes it literally: solar-powered drip irrigation, crushed cane returned as mulch and cattle feed, zero waste, and rum made from fresh-pressed juice the way Martinique does it. The Hawaiian Rum Agricole is the flagship: single-estate cane juice from those forty varieties, pressed, fermented, and distilled, bottled unaged at 46% ABV (92 proof) with no sugar, color, or flavoring. Wine Enthusiast found an enticing grassy aroma and a lively palate bouncing from green banana and lemongrass to a lightly peppery, mentholated finish. Rum Ratings' drinkers call it authentic-tasting agricole with lots of grass and a slight sweetness — the only white rum one owns, used almost exclusively in Mojitos — and one described it, admiringly, as being punched in the face by an angry banana that rolled in the grass. Honest note: this is real cane-juice rum, grassy and vegetal, and drinkers expecting Bacardí should know — agricole fans will find Hawaii's terroir a genuine new voice. For a Ti' Punch, a Mojito, a Hawaiian Daiquiri, or a Mai Tai with a Kohala accent, it's the islands' agricole. Forty canes, one farm, nothing added.
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