Papa's Pilar Dark Rum 24 Solera Spanish Sherry Cask Limited Edition

The Sherry Cask edition is Papa's Pilar Dark with a second, longer stay in Spanish Oloroso wood — and Booze Dancing found it took on an almost single-malt quality. Papa's Pilar was launched in 2013 by the Hemingway Rum Company in Key West, named for the writer's fishing boat, with his estate as partner and a share of profits going to conservation. This limited edition starts with the Dark 24: seven hand-selected pot- and column-still rums up to 25 years old from the Caribbean and Florida, solera-aged in bourbon barrels, port pipes, and Spanish sherry casks, then given an extended finish in ex-Oloroso sherry casks before bottling at 43% ABV with no sugar, color, or flavoring, in the canteen-shaped bottle modeled on Hemingway's own; the 2017 release carries the 24th solera profile. Booze Dancing found it a fine sipper that pairs beautifully with hard cheese — Prima Donna, Parmigiano — the nuttiness of the sherry and the cheese playing together. Rum Ratings' drinkers find a wonderful nose of brown sugar, maple, molasses, and sherry, vanilla dominating the back, and one calls it the best Pilar they've tasted; another, a fan of Foursquare Empery and Real McCoy Madeira, found the palate didn't deliver on the nose's promise. Honest note: it's sweet-leaning, the solera number is a profile not an age, and the sherry either sings or crowds, depending on the palate. For a cigar, a cheese board, a dessert pour, or the Papa's Pilar fan who wants the sherried edition.

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