Ron Abuelo 7 Year Rum

Ron Abuelo 7 is the middle of the grandfather's range — the Reserva Superior, and the bottle Cap'n Jimbo's Rum Project preferred among the Abuelos. Ron Abuelo is made by Varela Hermanos in Pesé, Panama, where Don José Varela Blanco built the first sugar mill in the newly independent Republic in 1908; the family still grows and mills its own cane, harvesting some 50,000 tons a season, distilling on column stills and aging in small used bourbon white oak barrels, which the Rum Project credits for the smoothness and character even skeptics prefer. The 7 Años is a blend of rums aged a minimum of seven years in ex-bourbon American oak, bottled at 40% ABV with a cork closure under the tattered label with the abuelo himself. Expect the house style between the young Añejo and the mature 12: a nose of caramel, vanilla, honey, and ripe banana with light oak, opening into a smooth, medium-bodied palate of toffee, baking spice, and a faint dried-fruit note with the dryness that sets Abuelo apart from sweeter Spanish-style rums, finishing warm and moderately long. Honest note: it's a soft, elegant column rum — not a funky pot-still bottle — and Rum Project's reviewers call the range a nice beginner's rum in the Cuban style, which is exactly its appeal. For a Rum Old Fashioned, a Cuba Libre worth the name, a Daiquiri with an aged base, or neat over ice, it's Panama's everyday sipper. Since 1908.

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