The Rums of Mexico is a project from PM Spirits, the importer behind Alambique Serrano, 5 Sentidos, and Cañada, built to do for Mexican cane spirits what the mezcal boom did for agave: find the small farm distillers of Veracruz, Oaxaca, and Jalisco, bottle their spirit without additives, and put the maker's name on the label. Mexico has distilled sugarcane for centuries, under names like aguardiente, cañita, chinguirito, and plain ron, but almost none of it has ever left the villages where it's made. Every bottle in this line names the farmer, the town, the cane variety, the fermentation, and the still, so you can taste the difference between Orlando Vásquez's broth-like Caldo and Panela in Tlatetela, made from fresh juice and rehydrated cane sugar on a wood-fired copper column; Marcos López's crisp, mineral Caña Cristalina and Caña Dura from Cosautlán de Carvajal; Pedro Bautista's long-fermented heritage-cane Caña Criolla from Oaxaca; and Un Toquecito, a modern collaboration with the experimental Satvrnal distillery in Jalisco. All are bottled at full strength between 46% and 52% ABV, and most are closer to rhum agricole or clairin than to anything from the Caribbean. If you're into mezcal, this is the next rabbit hole.

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