400 Conejos Cuishe Mezcal

Cuishe is the 400 Conejos that mezcal people actually recommend. Named for the Centzon Totochtin, the Four Hundred Rabbit gods of Aztec drunkenness, the brand is Mexico's best-selling mezcal — and this red-label expression blends its espadín with cuishe, an Agave karwinskii that grows as a tall, thin trunk in the dry valleys of Oaxaca and brings a distinctive herbal, mineral character no other agave has. Made in the communities of Tlacolula and Miahuatlán, the agaves are cooked in a traditional conical earthen oven over wood, fermented, and distilled in small batches, bottled at 40% ABV. 400 Conejos describes floral and herbal aromas with a hint of firewood and ash, subtly sweet cooked agave with floral and earthy tones, and a complex, smooth finish with lingering smoke. Mezcal Reviews' tasters call it the best of the range — clean, light-fruited, with a decent hint of cuishe coming through, red pepper, smoke, and a burnt-corn finish, with the honest caveat that it's lighter than a serious single-village cuishe and the karwinskii doesn't linger. Expect roasted agave and green herbs on the nose, a palate of singed grass, cracked pepper, and clean agave sweetness, and a short-to-medium finish with woody smoke and a lime-like brightness. For a Mezcal Negroni, a herbal Margarita, or a first neat pour that shows what a second agave adds, it's the red rabbit — the one to buy.

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