Yuu Baal Joven Tobala Mezcal

Mezcal Reviews' tasters describe Yuu Baal Tobalá as wildflowers, smoked wood, stone, vanilla, clove, peach, and apple — the king of the wild agaves at a price the brand is known for. Yuu Baal is a social enterprise, a group of producers in San Juan del Río, San Luis del Río, Tlacolula, and Miahuatlán, Oaxaca, whose mission is to highlight native Oaxacan mezcal traditions with every step done by hand. Tobalá is Agave potatorum — the small, broad-leafed maguey that grows in the shade of high oak canyons, takes twelve to fifteen years to mature, and yields so little that a bottle takes many plants — roasted in a conical stone-lined pit, crushed by tahona, fermented with wild yeast in pine vats, and double-distilled in copper, bottled at 48% ABV; every bottle is numbered by lot. Tobalá is prized for delicacy: expect white flowers and honey on the nose with stone fruit and a whisper of smoke, opening into a soft, rounded, faintly floral palate with green apple, clove, and a mineral thread, finishing long and gentle — less heat and more perfume than the house espadín. Honest note: enthusiasts call Yuu Baal hit or miss across the range and the wild agaves are the hits — and this is among the most affordable tobalás on the shelf. Neat, in a copita, slowly. The king, at a working price.

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