Broker's Gin

The bowler hat is the giveaway — every bottle of Broker's wears a tiny plastic one, a nod to the London city gent the brand is named for. Brothers Martin and Andy Dawson created it in 1998, and after tasting and testing dozens of modern recipes they went the other way, settling on a 200-year-old formula and a 200-year-old distillery: Langley's, near Birmingham, where the gin is made on a John Dore copper pot still, one of the world's most respected still-makers. The base is a quadruple-distilled spirit from 100% English wheat; ten botanicals — juniper, coriander seed, cinnamon, cassia bark, licorice, orris root, orange and lemon peel, angelica root, and nutmeg — steep in it for 24 hours before a fifth and final distillation. The US bottling is 47% ABV (94 proof), the strength The Gin Is In and Gin Foundry both single out as the one to buy. It's collected an absurd trophy case for the price: 92 points and Gold from the Beverage Testing Institute, Chairman's Trophies for both the Extra Dry Martini and the Aviation at the Ultimate Cocktail Challenge, and the Masters award at the London Gin Masters. Spirits Review found a body so thick it could be mistaken for glycerin, a bracing rush of licorice, juniper, citrus, and spice, and subtlety despite the proof. Gin Foundry: juniper center stage, vibrant lemon and orange, a peppery cassia-cinnamon finish with nutmeg adding length and a cheeky nip. Honest note: it's a classic, not a showpiece — which is exactly why it makes such a good Martini and G&T. The Gin Is In's verdict: tastes like gins costing $10 to $15 more.

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