Alipus San Luis Del Rio Mezcal
San Luis del Río is the "sea" in Alipús's land-forest-sea trilogy — the blue label, presented in tasting flights as the saline, mineral one. Alipús is the single-village project Los Danzantes launched in 1999 to bottle individual family palenques and put the maker's name on the label; San Luis joined in 2013, made by Don Baltazar Cruz and his sons in San Luis del Río, a village in the Tlacolula valley whose mezcal tradition is among the oldest in Oaxaca. Espadín is pit-roasted in a conical earthen horno, crushed by tahona, fermented in wood, and double-distilled in copper, bottled at around 47% ABV; lots vary, so check yours. Mezcal Reviews' consensus: grape, melon, smoke, and candy on the nose with honey, mint, and salinity, then fruit, smoke, cinnamon, and pepper on the palate with a salty minerality, citrus, and agave underneath. One taster of the 2018 lot found saltwater taffy and roasted jalapeño skin, spearmint, parsley, and red-hot firewood — big and boozy, lip-numbing, clay and fresh parsley on a medium-full palate, hot but good. Expect a more savory, mineral, briny mezcal than the fruit-forward San Andrés, with real heat and structure. Honest note: it's assertive — one of the bolder Alipús bottlings, and better for a seasoned palate than a first pour. For a Mezcal Margarita with a salted rim that finally makes sense, or neat with oysters, it's the sea, distilled.
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