Del Maguey Single Village Santo Domingo Albarradas Mezcal

Santo Domingo Albarradas is Del Maguey's high-mountain mezcal, made by one of the oldest active distillers in Mexico. Espiridión Morales has made mezcal in the Mixe region south of Oaxaca City since the 1950s, in a village perched in the Sierra Norte where the air is crisp and the water pure, and Ron Cooper — the Taos artist who founded Del Maguey in 1995 on the single-village idea, each village bottled under its own name with the maker credited — has bottled his work for decades. It's 100% espadín grown on the mountainside, roasted in an earthen pit, crushed by tahona, naturally fermented in wood, and twice-distilled in wood-fired copper stills, bottled at 48% ABV. Del Maguey's notes: a high, light nose with citrus overtones and a bit of roasted pear, then lots of tropical fruit on the tongue with a spicy edge. Mezcal Reviews' drinkers find it the brightest, fruitiest, most floral of the core Del Maguey villages — the altitude showing as lift rather than weight. Expect a fragrant nose of pear, tropical fruit, and green citrus over a clean, gentle smoke, opening into a vivid, mineral palate of ripe fruit, cooked agave, and white pepper, finishing long, dry, and elegant. Honest note: it's a sipper at Del Maguey's single-village price, and a genuine piece of mezcal history in the glass. In a copita, neat. The mountain village, from a master who's been at it seventy years.

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