Koch El Mezcal Ancestral Joven Maguey Tobala de Jayacatlan

Koch is one of the two mezcals a Mezcal PhD tasting group acclaimed above everything else on the table, and its Ancestral line is made the oldest way there is. Koch El Mezcal works with maestros across Oaxaca's mezcal regions, bottling each village and agave separately; the Ancestral designation, the strictest under Mexican law, means the agave was roasted in an earthen pit, crushed by hand with mallets or a tahona, fermented in wood or stone or hide, and distilled in clay pot stills over a wood fire. This bottle is wild tobalá from Jayacatlán — Agave potatorum, the small, broad-leafed king of the wild agaves that grows in the shade of high oak canyons and takes twelve to fifteen years to mature — pit-roasted, hand-crushed, wild-fermented, and clay-pot distilled, bottled unaged; check your label for the maestro, lot, and ABV. Tobalá is prized for delicacy, and clay distillation makes it softer still: expect a nose of white flowers, honey, ripe stone fruit, and wet clay over a whisper of smoke, opening into a rounded, perfumed, gently sweet palate with green apple, cinnamon, and a mineral thread, finishing long and soft. Honest note: wild tobalá in an ancestral clay-pot mezcal is doubly scarce and priced for it — a collector's sip. Neat, in a copita, slowly. The king, from the clay pots of Jayacatlán.

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