Mezcal Vago Ensamble By Emigdio Jarquin

Emigdio Jarquín's ensambles are, in Mezcal Reviews' words, in general great — and one taster called a batch one of the smoothest Vagos they could recall. Mezcal Vago launched in 2013 bottling single-maestro mezcals with the producer's name and batch on the label, and Emigdio — the blue label — is known throughout Miahuatlán for his distilling expertise; his palenque sits at 5,000 feet in the El Nanche district, where the calcium-carbonate soil gives everything he makes a mineral streak. His ensambles change with what the hills give: batches have run 51% tobalá, 43% espadín, and 6% madrecuixe; 52% tepeztate, 35% tobalá, and 13% espadín; and 62% mexicano with 38% madrecuishe — the agaves roasted together in an earthen pit, tahona-crushed, wild-fermented, and distilled in copper, hand-bottled around 51% ABV; check your batch for this bottle's blend. Mezcal Reviews' tasters found green banana, pine bark, and minerals; rock-candy minerals, whipped cream, and key lime custard, sweet and salty; blanco vermouth with a pimento olive, toasted oak, grass, and a minty finish — and an extra half star for value. Honest note: no two batches are the same, by design — that's the point of buying a single-maestro ensamble. Neat, in a copita. Emigdio's blend of the season, from El Nanche.

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