Père Labat is the rhum agricole of Distillerie Poisson on Marie-Galante, the small, flat, cane-covered island a short ferry ride from Guadeloupe that serious agricole drinkers treat as hallowed ground. The distillery was founded in 1916 by Édouard Rameau and named for Père Jean-Baptiste Labat, the Dominican friar who arrived in the French Antilles in the 1690s and modernized the way rum was distilled there. More than a century later, Poisson still does things the slow way: cane is cut by hand and crushed within hours of harvest, the fresh juice ferments slowly with no added sugar, and the wash runs through a red-copper Creole column that gives the rhum its dense, grassy, peppery character. Marie-Galante white rhum is famous for its intensity, and Père Labat's blancs are the island's calling card, from a friendly 40% liter for Ti' Punch to undiluted still-strength bottlings at 71%, including an organic release and Les Mangles, a numbered single-plot rhum from one parcel of purple cane on the north side of the estate. The aged range runs from the six-year Réserve Familiale through the eight-year Hors d'Âge, where the cane pepper folds into vanilla, tobacco, and dried fruit without ever losing the taste of the island.
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