Dictador Perpetual XO Rum

Perpetual is Dictador's XO — the top of the standing range, built on the house's oldest solera. Destilería Colombiana in Cartagena de Indias was founded in 1913 by Don Julio Arango y Ferro, whose ancestor, the Dictador of the name, ran a commercial rum trade in the 18th century, and its rum is almost entirely exported — protective laws keep it out of 98% of Colombia. Perpetual is made from fermented virgin sugarcane honey, distilled in an antique copper alembic, and aged in a perpetual solera of high-quality ex-bourbon oak that's never emptied — the blend contains rums reaching back decades, drawn and topped up continuously — bottled at 40% ABV in the black bottle. Alongside the sibling Insolent, The Lone Caner found it intriguingly named and measured 3 to 4 grams per liter by hydrometer, within the margin of error for no additives, while noting the sweetness solera rums carry. Expect the Dictador house style at its deepest: a nose of coffee, cocoa, dried fig, leather, and toasted oak with a warm spice, opening into a rich, rounded palate of dark chocolate, toffee, walnut, and cinnamon with the oily texture of long maturation and a dryness through the finish, which is long and warm. Honest note: it's a soft, 40% sipping rum in the Spanish tradition rather than a cask-strength single cask, and priced as a flagship. For a cigar, a slow neat pour, or the bottle that shows what Cartagena does with time, it's the perpetual one.

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