Neisson Rhum 15 Year

Fifteen years is a long time for Martinique agricole — the angels take more than half the cask — and Neisson's 15 is one of the island's benchmark old rhums. Neisson is one of the last two independent, family-run distilleries in Martinique, founded in 1922 near Le Carbet in the northwest by brothers Jean and Adrien Neisson, now run by Jean's grandson Grégory Vernant-Neisson; it makes barely 2% of the island's rhum from 49 hectares of its own cane, on a copper Savalle column Jean himself modified in 1952, with a five-day fermentation deliberately kept to a low 7.5% for maximum flavor. The 15 is fresh cane juice distilled on that column and aged fifteen years in ex-bourbon and French oak casks in Martinique's tropical climate, bottled at around 45% ABV with nothing added under the AOC Martinique; check your label for the exact strength and any vintage. The Lone Caner calls Neisson one of the most distinctive agricole makers he's encountered — salty, oily, musky — and its aged rhums remarkable once they unfold, rewarding patience. Fifteen tropical years turns Neisson's savory cane into something dense and layered: expect a nose of dried fig, toasted oak, tobacco, walnut, and the house's buttery, grape-like note, opening into a rich, oily palate of caramel, dark spice, dried fruit, and a mineral, faintly saline depth with the cane still audible under the wood, finishing very long and dry. Honest note: a collector's agricole at a collector's price, for drinkers who've had the vieux and XO and want the family's deep cellar. Neat, slowly, with time.

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