Neisson Rhum 18 Year

Eighteen years of tropical aging on Martinique agricole is a technical feat — the angels take most of the cask — and Neisson's 18 is among the oldest rhums the family releases. Neisson is one of the last two independent, family-run distilleries in Martinique, founded in 1922 near Le Carbet in the northwest by brothers Jean and Adrien Neisson, now run by Jean's grandson Grégory Vernant-Neisson; it makes barely 2% of the island's rhum from 49 hectares of its own cane, on a copper Savalle column Jean himself modified in 1952, with a five-day fermentation deliberately kept to a low 7.5% for maximum flavor. The 18 is fresh cane juice distilled on that column and aged eighteen years in ex-bourbon and French oak casks in Martinique's climate, bottled at around 45% ABV with nothing added under the AOC Martinique; check your label for the exact strength and any vintage. The Lone Caner calls Neisson one of the most distinctive agricole makers he's encountered, its aged rhums remarkable once they unfold and worth every ounce of patience. Eighteen years takes Neisson's savory, musky cane deep into oak territory: expect a nose of dried fig, prune, leather, tobacco, walnut, and toasted wood with the house's buttery, grape-like signature, opening into a dense, oily, layered palate of caramel, dark spice, dried fruit, and a mineral, saline depth with a faint rancio, the cane still present under nearly two decades of wood, finishing extremely long and dry. Honest note: a rare collector's agricole, priced as one — for the drinker who wants the family's oldest cellar. Neat, slowly, on a night that deserves it.

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