Neisson Rhum L'esprit 1L
L'Esprit is Neisson straight off the column — 70% ABV, the rhum as it leaves the still before a drop of water — and it comes in a liter. Neisson is one of the last two independent, family-run distilleries in Martinique, founded in 1922 near Le Carbet in the northwest by brothers Jean and Adrien Neisson, now run by Jean's grandson Grégory Vernant-Neisson; it makes barely 2% of the island's rhum from 49 hectares of its own cane, on a copper Savalle column Jean himself modified in 1952, with a five-day fermentation deliberately kept to a low 7.5% for maximum flavor. L'Esprit is fresh cane juice from the Domaine Thieubert, fermented, distilled on that column, and bottled brut de colonne at 70% with nothing added under the AOC Martinique, in the square-shouldered Zépol Karé bottle. The Lone Caner, who calls Neisson one of the most distinctive agricole makers he's encountered — salty, oily, tequila-ish, musky — describes L'Esprit as a ferocious white rhino. Expect an enormous nose of fresh cane, green olive, wet earth, and white flowers, opening into a dense, oily, intensely vegetal palate with brine, pepper, and a savory grip that holds up to any dilution, finishing very long. Honest note: at 140 proof this is a bartender's and enthusiast's bottle — for a Ti' Punch that takes half the pour, a Daiquiri that needs a backbone, or for cutting to your own strength. The spirit of Neisson, undiluted, by the liter.
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