Fidencio Tepextate Mezcal

Tepextate is the Fidencio that friends of Mezcal Reviews rave about — complex and balanced, with jalapeño and candied fruit. Fidencio Jiménez began making mezcal over a century ago in Santiago Matatlán, the world capital of mezcal, and the palenque is now run by his great-grandson, fourth-generation maestro Enrique Jiménez; the family also makes El Buho. Tepextate is the cliff agave — Agave marmorata — that grows wild on rocky hillsides and takes twenty to twenty-five years to mature, one of the most prized and slowest of the wild magueys. Enrique roasts it in an earthen pit, crushes it by tahona, ferments with native yeast in pine vats, and double-distills in a wood-fired copper alembic, bottled at still strength; check your label for ABV and lot. Mezcal Reviews calls it one of the better-known mezcals from Enrique Jiménez: jalapeño, candied fruit, and the green, vegetal, faintly floral character tepextate is famous for, with the house's vanilla-and-earth base underneath. Expect a nose of green chile, tropical fruit, wet stone, and a whisper of smoke, opening into a bright, spicy, herbal palate with honeyed fruit and a long, peppery finish. Honest note: wild tepextate is rare and priced for it, and two decades of growth show in the glass. Neat, in a copita, slowly. The cliff agave, from four generations.

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