Fuenteseca 21 Year Reserva Extra Anejo Tequila

Fuenteseca 21 Year is often called the world's first Grand Cru tequila — agave harvested in 1993, barreled in February 1994, and bottled in 2014 after twenty-one years in wood, most of it in barrels that held Canadian rye. Enrique Fonseca is a fourth-generation agavero, one of the largest independent growers in Jalisco, and the distiller at La Tequileña, NOM 1146, in the town of Tequila; he set out to make the oldest aged tequila in the world, and Fuenteseca — additive-free, estate-bottled — runs 7, 8, 11, 15, 18, and 21 years with the harvest year and distillation method on every label. The 21 Year is 100% blue Weber agave from the 1993 harvest, distilled exclusively in copper pot stills, aged ten years in ex-Canadian-rye casks — one barrel a California white-wine cask — on a dry earthen floor in Atotonilco el Alto, then judged worthy of more and moved to the higher, cooler climate of Chapingo for eleven more years, bottled at around 43% ABV. The Bourbon Concierge: among the oldest tequilas commercially available — delicate, intricate, contemplative, aged more like fine brandy, with incense, oxidized fruit, and antique wood unfolding slowly. Expect rancio, sandalwood, dried fig, old leather, tobacco, and a ghost of agave, silky and quiet, with a finish measured in minutes. Honest note: a once-in-a-lifetime bottle from a single 1993 harvest that can never be made again, priced accordingly — for the serious collector. Neat, in a Glencairn, on the night that earns it. Fonseca's 1993.

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