Siembra Valles Ancestral Blanco Tequila

An Agave Matchmaker taster called Siembra Valles Ancestral legitimately spectacular — agave roasted in an earthen pit, crushed by hand with wooden mallets, distilled in clay, and bottled at 104 proof, the way tequila was made before the word existed. David Suro is the Philadelphia restaurateur, author, and agave evangelist behind Siembra Spirits, and Ancestral is his most traditional project: made at Cascahuín, NOM 1123, the Rosales family distillery in El Arenal since 1904, from 100% blue Weber agave cooked in an underground earthen pit, crushed by hand, fermented with native yeast in wood, distilled in a clay-and-copper Filipino-style still, and bottled at 52% ABV, additive-free, in tiny numbered lots. Agave Matchmaker's tasters: cooked agave, honey, campfire smoke, and citrus on the nose — like a slightly sweet mezcal, in a very good way — reminiscent of tepeztate mezcal, earthy, vegetal, with the 1123 minerality in its DNA and a subtle smoke that adds character without overpowering; another found pickle brine, charred wood, peppermint, chile, cucumber, and a long, spicy finish. Old Town Tequila: bold, expressive, deeply traditional. Honest note: the most primitive tequila commercially made, and one of the most sought-after — for the mezcal drinker, the historian, and the enthusiast who wants to taste 1800. Neat, in a copita, slowly. As traditional as it gets.

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