Hachidori Junmai Ginjo Sake
Hachidori Junmai Ginjo is the cobalt-blue bottle in the hummingbird range brewed by Stuart Morris at Shindo Brewery in Yamagata Prefecture, a tenth-generation family house set among mountain water and its own rice fields. Morris is a Bostonian who spent 25 years chasing sake, passed the Kikisake-shi sommelier exam in Tokyo in 2010 entirely in Japanese, then spent three years cleaning and working unpaid in Japanese breweries before apprenticing under master brewer Masanobu Shindo and eventually earning the chance to brew alongside him; Hachidori, named for the idea that if a bird that small can hover, anything is possible, launched in the United States in 2024 through Napa's John Anthony Wine & Spirits. The Junmai Ginjo is brewed from premium sake rice grown at the brewery and pristine Yamagata mountain water with no added distilled alcohol, and it sits at a sake meter value of 0 with 1.4 acidity, which reads as balanced and savory with a dry finish; Morris describes honeydew, white raspberry, green banana and jasmine tea with lifted acidity, and True Sake's Beau Timken found honeydew, berries and white peach on the nose with a silky, medium-bodied palate of green apple, melon and citrus rind. It comes in a 720ml bottle. Serve it chilled in a wine glass with sushi, oysters, roast chicken or a cheese board.
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