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Juerte Destilado de Pulque
Juerte is a destilado de pulque, a spirit distilled from pulque, the fermented sap of the maguey that was Mexico's everyday drink for centuries before beer pushed it aside. The brand comes from Jorge Viveros, working with maestro Gerónimo Rosainz and his wife, a chemical engineer, in northeastern Tlaxcala. It starts with mature Agave salmiana, the pulquero maguey: instead of harvesting and roasting the piña as for mezcal, the plant is carved open and the cavity scraped so it fills with aguamiel, the sweet sap, which a single plant can give at a rate of up to ten liters a day. The aguamiel is fermented for about a week with pulque madre, the starter culture from a previous batch, then single distilled in a stainless steel still and bottled at 40% ABV. Because nothing is cooked, it tastes nothing like mezcal: reviewers describe a funky, sour, pulque-driven nose with sugar cane and nutty notes, and a surprisingly smooth, grassy, vegetal palate with warm acidity. Imported by Back Alley Imports, it is a rare taste of a nearly lost category. Sip it neat.
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