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La Medida Mezcal Madrecuishe Joven
La Medida, meaning "the measure," was created by Julián Vidal Gómez Rodríguez, who has spent decades building Oaxacan mezcal from the ground up, together with maestro mezcalero Celso Luis Santiago. The brand pays its mezcaleros a salary while their agave grows and hands them an additional thirty percent of each batch's net sale price in cash. The Madrecuishe comes from the palenque of maestro mezcalero Antonio Cortés Aragón in Miahuatlán, Oaxaca, and is made from 100% Madrecuishe, one of the slender, tall-trunked forms of Agave karwinskii. The piñas are cooked in a conical earthen oven, crushed with a stone tahona drawn by a bull, fermented in open-air wooden tinas, and distilled twice in copper pot stills with a refrescadera condenser. Strength varies slightly from batch to batch. The importer's notes balance fruity and vegetal sides: green melon rind, fresh peanut shells, and sweet green herbs like cilantro, with leafy greens, sweet carrot, and raspberry seed in the background. Compared with the Bicuishe from the same family, which leans piney and resinous, the Madrecuishe is greener and fruitier, and tasting the two side by side is a good lesson in how much karwinskii varies.
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