Novo Fogo Silver Cachaca

The Fat Rum Pirate couldn't think of a white cachaça he'd rate above this one for quality, price, and availability. Novo Fogo — "new fire" in Portuguese — was founded in 2004 in Morretes, in the coastal Atlantic rainforest of Paraná state in southern Brazil, by Fulgencio Torres Viruel and master distiller Agenor Maccari, and unlike most cachaça brands sold abroad it owns its distillery. Silver is the base of the whole range: organic estate sugarcane hand-cut and pressed within twenty-four hours, fermented for a day into a cane wine of 7 to 8%, and distilled in small batches on a 1,200-liter copper pot still — hearts only, the heads and tails recycled into sanitizer and fuel — then rested a year in stainless steel and bottled at 40% ABV, USDA organic, in a hand-made recycled-glass bottle. The Fat Rum Pirate found it refreshing with a fresh, almost lemon note, a honeyed sweetness that plays wonderfully with citrus and spice, and a natural fit for the Caipirinha and Mojito. Drink Spirits called it an extremely strong contender to be the cachaça that turns Americans onto the category. The Lone Caner liked it quite a bit. Expect fresh-cut cane, green banana, lime, and a faint saline funk on the nose, a bright, vegetal, lightly sweet palate, and a clean finish. Honest note: it's grassier and funkier than industrial column cachaças like Leblon — that's the point. For the definitive Caipirinha, a Batida, or a cachaça Daiquiri, it's the new fire.

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