KoHana Kea Hawaiian Agricole Rum

One Rum Ratings taster called Kōhana Kea the best clear agricole they'd ever tried — better than Capovilla, Neisson, and Clément's whites. Kōhana is Hawaii's heirloom-cane distillery, founded in 2014 in Kunia on Oahu by Robert Dawson and Jason Brand, who grow more than thirty varieties of ancient Polynesian sugarcane — the kō the first Hawaiians brought by canoe — and press each variety separately to make single-varietal agricole. Kea is the white: fresh cane juice from the farm, fermented, distilled first in a pot still and then through a column, and bottled unaged at 40% ABV with nothing added; each batch names its cane variety on the label. Rum Ratings' drinkers describe brine, sugarcane, and light peppery spice — fabulous for the style — while one found it noticeably less grassy than Martinique, with a peppery, diesel-fuel edge and a price above most agricole whites. Expect a clean, mineral cane spirit with saline and white-pepper notes and a smoother, less vegetal profile than Caribbean agricole, the pot-then-column distillation lending polish. Honest note: it's small-batch and priced accordingly, and its restraint is either its virtue or its limitation depending on how much grass you want. For a Ti' Punch, a Daiquiri, a Mai Tai, or neat to taste a single variety of ancient Hawaiian cane. Oahu's heirloom agricole, one cane at a time.

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