KoHana Koho Barrel Aged Hawaiian Agricole Rum

Koho means to select or choose — and it's Kōhana's barrel-select agricole, the Kea white given time in oak. Kōhana is Hawaii's heirloom-cane distillery, founded in 2014 in Kunia on Oahu on the site of a retired Del Monte pineapple plantation, where Robert Dawson and Jason Brand grow more than thirty varieties of ancient Polynesian sugarcane — the kō the first Hawaiians brought by canoe, many at risk of being lost — and press each variety separately. Koho is fresh cane juice, pot-then-column distilled, aged three to six months in new charred American oak and then eighteen months or more in used bourbon barrels, bottled at 45% ABV with nothing added. Kōhana's notes: caramel and cinnamon on the nose, a fusion of vanilla, honey, and warm spice in the glass. Rum Ratings' drinkers find a playful nose of vanilla, caramel, cherry, and oak, slightly reminiscent of a wine-barrel room, tasting delicious and punching above its weight — one of their favorite agricoles for sipping, Dark 'n' Stormys, and Mai Tais; another compares it to Barbancourt with a lemony, grassy agricole burn. Gastronom found licorice, cinnamon, charred wood, and herbal notes. Honest note: opinions split — some find the new-oak influence out of balance with a hot finish — and it's small-batch and priced accordingly. For a Mai Tai with a Hawaiian base, a Dark 'n' Stormy, a Rum Old Fashioned, or neat over one cube, it's Oahu's aged agricole. Selected, barrel by barrel.

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